Growing up, my late grandmother, whom I affectionately called Opah, would often make this for breakfast. It’s a wonderfully simple, old-fashioned recipe made with just a handful of ingredients: rice, shallots, black pepper, garlic and dried anchovies.
What makes it special is the way the ingredients are prepared. Rather than using a blender, Opah would reach for her trusty pestle and mortar, roughly pounding the peppercorns, garlic and anchovies together. I remember questioning this as a little girl, especially when we had a perfectly good blender at home! But having made it myself all these years later, I finally understand. There’s something about the texture and the way those freshly pounded ingredients release their flavours that makes this fried rice so incredibly delicious.
Opah fell ill in the years leading up to her passing in 2023, and with that came the end of many mornings spent enjoying her cooking. It had been close to a decade since I last tasted this fried rice, so recreating it was an unexpectedly emotional experience.
I’m so grateful she taught me how to make this when I was little, and now, I’m sharing her recipe with you.
INGREDIENTS (Serves approximately 3-4 pax)
- 600–700g day-old cooked rice
- 4–5 shallots, thinly sliced
- 1½ tbsp whole black peppercorns
- 6 cloves garlic, peeled
- ½ cup dried anchovies (ikan bilis)
- Approximately ½ cup cooking oil, for sautéing
- Salt and sugar, to taste
- Sliced spring onions, for garnishing (optional)
HOW TO MAKE IT
- Using a pestle and mortar, pound the black peppercorns until roughly crushed into small, coarse pieces. There’s no need to grind them into a fine powder.
- Add the garlic cloves and continue pounding until roughly minced and well combined with the peppercorns. Again, we’re not looking for a smooth paste. A little texture is what makes this recipe special.
- Add the dried anchovies and pound until roughly broken down and incorporated into the mixture. Set aside.
- Heat the cooking oil in a large wok over medium heat. Add the sliced shallots and sauté until softened and fragrant. There’s no need to brown them.
- Add the pounded black pepper, garlic and anchovy mixture. Continue sautéing for approximately 5 minutes, stirring regularly, until fragrant and the anchovies are cooked through. Adjust the heat as needed to prevent the garlic from burning.
- Season with salt and sugar to taste, mixing everything well. Be mindful that the anchovies will already contribute saltiness.
- Add the day-old cooked rice and toss thoroughly until every grain is evenly coated with the fragrant mixture. Continue stir-frying until the rice is heated through.
- Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Garnish with sliced spring onions, if desired, and serve warm.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Why use a pestle and mortar instead of a blender?
A pestle and mortar crushes and bruises the ingredients rather than chopping them uniformly. This helps release their aromatic oils while retaining little pieces of peppercorn, garlic and anchovy throughout the fried rice.
It’s the method my Opah always used, and having tried it myself, I truly believe it makes a difference to the overall flavour and texture.
2. Can I use a blender instead?
Yes, although I would recommend a pestle and mortar if you have one. If using a blender or food processor, pulse the ingredients briefly until coarsely chopped rather than blending them into a fine paste. Avoid adding water, as we want to keep the mixture relatively dry.
3. Is 1½ tablespoons of black peppercorns too much?
This is a black pepper-forward fried rice, so that peppery warmth is very much part of its character! If you’re sensitive to spice, you can start with 1 tablespoon instead. For the full experience, I’d recommend following the original quantity.
4. Can I use ground black pepper instead of whole peppercorns?
Freshly crushed whole black peppercorns are strongly recommended. They provide a more aromatic flavour and a lovely coarse texture that you won’t quite achieve with finely ground pepper.
5. Why use day-old rice?
Day-old rice tends to be firmer and less moist, making it easier to toss in the wok without turning mushy. If cooking rice specifically for this recipe, allow it to cool quickly and refrigerate promptly before using. Always refrigerate cooked rice rather than leaving it at room temperature overnight.
6. Do I need to wash the dried anchovies?
Depending on the type of dried anchovies you’re using, you may wish to remove the heads and innards, and rinse them briefly to remove any debris or excess salt. If rinsing, drain and pat them thoroughly dry before pounding, so they sauté properly rather than steam.
7. Can I reduce the amount of oil?
You can, although this is one of those traditional recipes where a generous amount of oil helps carry the flavours of the aromatics and coat the rice beautifully. The original recipe uses approximately ½ cup, but you can adjust slightly depending on your preference and the amount absorbed by the ingredients.
8. Can I add eggs, vegetables or other proteins?
Of course! But personally, I love keeping this recipe exactly as my Opah made it. Its beauty lies in how a handful of humble ingredients can create something so delicious without needing much else.
9. How should I store leftovers?
Cool the fried rice quickly, ideally within an hour, and refrigerate in an airtight container. When re-consuming, reheat thoroughly until steaming hot throughout. Avoid reheating more than once.
